To Make a Spectral Density Negative

 

Clear-based transparency does not hold the ink as well, so you will give transparency a color cast to make a reasonable density.

 

Use Orange color for UV processes:

 

Cyan:             0

Magenta        71

Yellow            71

Black              0

 

1)

Take a grayscale image, apply levels

 

2)

Flip image horizontally

 

3)

Invert the grayscale to create negative

 

4)

Convert mode to RGB

 

5)

Click foreground color and specify the above percents.

 

6)

Fill the image with the foreground color

 

7)

In fill dialogue, specify 100 % opacity and MODE: color and color mode.

 

Processing Van Dyke Brown (Short Version):

 

1)

expose after running test strips (with UV table, probably 30 to 120 seconds)

 

2)

rinse for 3-5 min (90 degrees F will speed this up)

 

3)

fix  with 3%  or measuring 50 grams (approximately 4 heaping

teaspoons) of fixer crystals(sodium thiosulfate) per liter of cold tap water 20 g to 1,000 ml of water for 3-5 min

 

4)

hypo clear for 2 min

 

5)

final wash for 10-15 min

 

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VAN DYKE PROCESSING (Long Version)

 

What you will need:

 

Coating:

1) van dyke solution in a cup, about 30 drops for an 8X10 print

2) plastic

3) brush

4) paper (see below)

 

Exposing/Developing

 

What you will need:

4 trays:

1) water (change after 8-10 prints)

2) fix: 20 grams of sodium thiosulfate to 1 liter of water

3) Hypo Clear (or perma wash)

4) Second rinse (running water)

contact box

coated paper

negative (see other handout or go to our class website)

 

STEPS

 

1)    PAPER

 

Select a 100% cotton rag, unbuffered, archival quality paper to print on. If you are printing on a sheet

of 8.5"x11" paper, make sure it has a minimum weight of 32 lb. hot pressed

papers with a minimum 47lb rating for larger images. Use paper provided or BFK reeves or experiment with others

 

2) Coating and Drying

 

Approximate drops needed for images, some papers will require more, some less:

4"x5" image = 10

5"x7" image = 15

6"x9" image = 20

8"x10" image = 30

 

3) Exposure

 

Expose with the contact box and UV light table until paper appears approximately 1/2 as

dark as the desired final image..

 

4) Washing

Take the exposed image from the print frame and place it in the first tray of wash water. Agitate the

tray, and notice the yellow stain lifting off of the paper. Wash the print for 3-5 minutes, or until most of

the yellow emulsion stain has been removed from the highlights of your image. Change the wash water

after 8-10 prints, or if washing times begin to take longer than 5 minutes. Using warm water (90

degrees F) in the first tray will shorten wash times considerably.

 

5) Fixing

Remove your print from the first wash tray and transfer it to the second tray with the fixer solution.

Agitate the tray periodically, and watch as the image darkens. Continue agitation for 5 minutes.

Remove the image from the fixer, and it should be approximately 3/4 as dark as your final desired

image. In the final drying stage the image will darken and the color will richen even further. Over-fixing

can lead to bleaching of the image, while under fixing will cause archival permanence issues.

 

5b) Hypo clear for 2 minutes and cut final rinse to 10 min.

 

6) Final Wash and Drying

Move the print from the fixer tray to the final wash tray. Set the flow so a slow, constant stream of cool

water is running. Wash the print for 30 (10 min if you used hypo clear) minutes, agitating the tray once every 5 minutes.

 

After washing for 30 minutes, gently lift the print from the tray by a corner and allow the water to drain

off of the paper for 15 seconds.

Dry on several clean cloths

 

You may flatten your dried prints in a warm dry mount press, then mount and matt

them on archival, acid-free board.